Some of the world's most audacious and beautiful examples of Islamic religious buildings are to be found in Uzbekistan's Bukhara, Khiva and, especially, Samarkand. Most of the monumental mosques, minarets, mausolea and monasteries date from the time of the Timurids, great appreciators of glitzy, glazed goth-ish glories. Uzbekistan's folk art has tended towards the portable - clothes, arms, jewellery, weaving, embroidery and rugs - in tune with semi-nomadic living. Islam prohibits the depiction of the living, so traditional arts developed in the form of calligraphy, combining Islamic script with arabesques, and the carving of doors and screens.

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Painting was revived under the Soviets and became a curious hybrid of socialist realism and mock traditionalism - try smiling Ukbeks at a teahouse with futuristic chimneys thrusting skywards in the background.
Uzbek men usually wear sombre colours, except for the bright-coloured sash which older men use to close their long quilted coats. Nearly all wear the dopy, a black, four-sided skullcap embroidered in white. Uzbek women are fond of dresses in sparkly cloth, often worn as a knee-length gown with trousers of the same material underneath. One or two braids indicate a married woman; more braids signify a single woman. Eyebrows that grow together over the bridge of the nose are considered attractive and are often supplemented with pencil for the right effect. Uzbek is the official language of Uzbekistan, though Russian is still the language of government and academia and Tajik is spoken in Samarkand and Bukhara.
Central Asian food resembles that of the Middle East or the Mediterranean in its use of rice, savoury seasonings, vegetables and legumes, yoghurt and grilled meats. In northern Uzbekistan meals often consist of pilafs, kebabs, noodles and pasta, stews, elaborate breads and pastries. Subtle seasonings and fancy sweets distinguish the cuisine of southern Uzbekistan. Tea is ubiquitous, usually served without milk. Despite their Muslim heritage, most Uzbekis drink alcohol, at least with guests. If you don't enjoy hard booze (commonly vodka), make your excuses early.